Where the year ran out of time, but the bush did not.Where Madikwe quietly reminds you what a proper reserve looks like.
I have been incredibly fortunate this past week to spend some time in one of South Africa’s top reserves — Madikwe.
Madikwe has been a bit of a mixed bag… if your idea of a mixed bag includes 5/5 sightings of lions, cheetahs, wild dogs and then, just for good measure, some rather ridiculous scenery thrown in on top. The kind of place that makes you question whether you’ve accidentally skipped ahead a few chapters.
It’s still North West, so there are a lot of similarities compared to the Pilanesberg in terms of species and some shared ecology, especially if you’re used to Black Rhino. However that’s pretty much where the similarities end.
The birding is phenomenal, particularly up north towards Botswana. I mean, you could go days in the Pilanesberg without seeing a raptor. In Madikwe, there are dead leadwoods scattered everywhere — essentially nature’s version of a luxury penthouse for anything with wings and a superiority complex. Raptors, goshawks, vultures… all making frequent appearances. A very welcome change of pace.
Then there are the limestone caves scattered through the central parts of the reserve — extremely useful for daylight sightings of one of Madikwe’s supposed to be more elusive residents: the brown hyena. A creature that operates almost entirely on its own terms, which, frankly, is something I can respect.
Over the past few days I’ve gotten acquainted with some of the local residents, in particular the Kwena Pride and a few breakaways from the Jamala Pride. Some great lion sightings, with all the usual politics, posturing, and silent agreements that come with them.
Then came the cheetahs. The Moselesele males — absolutely ridiculous animals. Pretty and round faced, and carrying that effortless confidence that only comes from knowing you’re faster than everything else in the room.
And then, the cherry on top of the icing on top of the cake made out of icing…
Wild dogs.
That sighting, in particular, meant a lot. It’s been a long time since I’ve worked in a reserve with resident wild dogs. Lately, if I wanted that fix, I had to go out of pocket to the Kruger and hope for the best. So getting eleven of them out on the open road a few mornings ago… that felt like something. With winter approaching and denning season around the corner, it made the moment carry just that little bit more weight.
I can absolutely see why this reserve has the reputation and stature that it does within the wildlife community. It’s not just good — it’s properly good.
I’m very much looking forward to the coming months, and to seeing how this beautiful green “Kalahari” landscape transforms into its harsher, more barren winter self — and how the dynamics shift along with it.
See you in the next one — where hopefully it involves a leopard or two, and perhaps even the ever-nearing sighting of Addo and Mothata, two of the real heavyweights when it comes to lions on this reserve.
Stay tuned.
Catch you in the next one.
Ps. Got that first shot of a Leoaprd last night.
No good deed goes unpunished!
Wildlife Beyond the Lens 